Short description of the
municipality of Xicoin the
Mexican State of Veracruz
Xico is located in
the Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range, east of Mexico City in the
centre of the State of Veracruz, at 21 kms from Xalapa, the state capital.
Xico, a county
town, is 1270 mts/ 3810 ft. above sea level (northern latitude 19-25-30 and
eastern longitude 2-8-15). The county area is 17.600 hectares or 176.85 square
kms/110.5 square miles. To this day it is identical in its size and its
boundaries with the original province of Xicochimalco of the prehispanic
empire „South Totonacapan“.At the arrival of the Spaniards the area was controlled
by the Totonacs from the Gulf Coast and by the Mexicas (i.e. the Aztecs) from
the high plateau, but was administrated autonomously.
Since 1384, the official language was Nahuatl, which
displaced the Totonac language. However, today Nahuatl is practically no longer
spoken in that region.
The boundaries of the county are
naturally given: In the west by the mountain range of Nauhcampatépetl (Cofre
de Perote or the Perote Chest mountain), in the north by the Huehueyapan
river and in the south by the Xoloapan river, from its source to its
confluencewith the Huehueyapan river in
the east. In this small area the altitude
varies between 700 mts and 3000 mts above sea level, to 4,220 mts, the altitude
of the Cofre de Perote mountain, (which really should be called Cofre de
Xico).
The climate is generally humid
and temperate. There are three climatic areas: subtropical, temperate and fresh
in the high regions.
The county is divided into three
„congregations“ or political zones: Coatitlán, Tlacuilolan and San Marcos de
León. The area of Xico is subdivided into 27 small areas.The town has about 17.500 inhabitants (census
of 1996), the entire county 32.400.
The official name of the county
town isSanta Maria Magdalena de Xicochimalco. At the beginning of the 19th
century the name was simplified to „Xico“ by the administration of President
Porfirio Díaz.
In mid-August 1519 Hernán Cortes
stayed overnight in Xicochimalco on his way from the coast to Tenochtitlan
(present-day Mexico City). In his second letter to the King of Spain he wrote
that access to this fortified, remote and high-lying townwas difficult and that in the surrounding
villages there were some 5000 to 6000 warriors (= farmers). This „ancient fortified town“ of
Xicochimalco with the former ceremonial centre is a field of ruins today, with
a village at the foot of the former temple precinct. The name of that village
is „Xico Viejo“ (old Xico). It is located about 4 kms north of the present-day
colonial town centre.
Between 1525 and 1530, the
families of Xico Viejo moved further down the valley, away from the fortified
town, in order to avoid military conflicts with the Spaniards. In 1540,
Franciscan monks arrived and organised the new settlement in the Spanish style
in a chequered street pattern and established town districts. In order to control
the Indios, the Spaniards forced the severely decimated population of the
surroundings to live in the new settlement as well.
In this way it was easier to
control the taxes to the Spanish crown. It should be emphasized that the
Spaniards respected the territory of the Xiqueño Indios and did not hand it
over to Spaniards as so-called encomiendas, so that the only taxes that
had to be paid were those to the Spanish Crown. The reason was that the Xiqueño
Indians had received Cortés and his soldiers peacefully and fed them and that
they had also avoided military confrontations in subsequent periods. Autonomous administration was
guaranteed for many decades. The few haciendas (large country estates) that
existed were formed by acquisition of land from the neighbouring counties and
in one case by illigal appropriation, which was canceled, however, in favour of
the municipality of Xico through a law suit in 1875.
Xicochimalco was located
at the prehispanic trade route of the Toltecs, Tlaxcaltecs and later the
Aztecs, which connected the Gulf coast (Chalchihueyecan, the prehispanic
name of Veracruz and the Emerald Coast)to the Anahuac (the valley of today’s Mexico City). The Xiqueños
rendered themselves peacefully to the Mexicas (Aztecs) in 1479, probably
due to the consideration that a town on a trade route would increase its wealth
through agreements rather than through military conflicts.
In the 16th century the
Spaniards established the route from Veracruz to Mexico City via
Xalapa-Perote-Puebla, in order to deprive the Indians of their power and to
increase the importance of Puebla, the only Spanish foundation. That is why
Xalapa, originallya group of small
dispersed settlements, developed into an important town, Pinahuizapan (today’s
Perote) as well, and Puebla became the second largest metropolis and religious
centre after Mexico City, although today it has been outgrown by Guadalajara
and Monterrey.
Xico and the surrounding
provinces lost size and importance, almost fell into oblivion and although about
40 Spanish families settled there, there were few economic impulses and the
region had little significance until the 17th/18th century. Then there were
various agricultural booms for export to the USA: Oranges, tobacco, coffee,
beef.
In medicine Xico was known for the export of the laxative
„Xalapa“ made out of the root of the plant Escamonea Mexicana or lpomoea
Purga, which was an important export product to Germany, as well as the
natural fibre out of the plant "Muhlenbergia macroura", which
is for-gotten today.A plant which is
still being cultivated is Zarzaparrilla de Indias (Smilax officinalis)
which is used for the production of root beer in the USA. Among the original
wild-growing plants, the Mexican bramble (Coatlamitl) is worth mentioning,
which was described by Bernal Díaz del Castillo, the historian soldier under
Hernán Cortés, as uva silvestre (wild vine), in his report about Xico
and its surroundings. The anise plant from which aniseed is produced, is
collected on the hills and fields around the town for making liquor (Verde
de Xico)Out of the many plants native to
Xico it is worth mentioning tejocote (= Crataegus mexicana Moc.), a spiny fruit
tree with a yellow, very aromatic fruit that looks like a very small apple; Capulín
(= Prunus capuli Cav.), that looks very much like the peach-tree with
fruits that resemble Europen wild black cherries; Tecapulin or Teshuate(Conostegia Xalapensis), a bush or tree with fruits that
look like black currant, but have a different taste. Its fruits grow
year-round, and there are several kinds that vary in colour and taste; the
castor-oil plant (Ricinus Communis); the Equimitl or Colorín tree
(=Erythrina L. ?), whose red finger-long flowers (gasparitos) used
to be mixed with egg and made into hamburgers and whose bark used to provide a
yellow colouring, while its leaves and its red seeds contain a poison; Yucca
(xiquensis), whose tall white
flowers are cooked andconverted into a
tasty dish; Oxitl (Liquidambar), which is common today as a street tree on
sideways and in parks all over the world. There is the chinini, a large
variety of avocado, the jenequil, whose tasty seeds people like to suck,
the Berenjena de las India, an egg-shaped red tree fruit that tastes
like a mixture of tomato and apple; Poma Rosa, en edible cherry that
tastes of perfume, Zapote Negro, Chirimoya, and many others.
Real estate in the area
has a high price, because there is rain year-round, which allows vegetation to
grow year-round and the climate is almost always spring-like, similar toEuropean summer, which is healthy for humans.
Since there is always a breeze from the Gulf of Mexico, the air is particularly
clean. Because of the frequent rainfall there are a lot of fountains, streams
and rivers which are very clean, especially in the higher areas. On average
there are 152 sunny days per year against 213 cloudy or rainy days.
The inhabitants of the town of
Xico are mostly mestizos with a predominant Indian component and a strong sense
of traditional customs, intertwined with rites of the Catholic Church, which
manifest themselves in „heathen“ dances and folkloristic parades during the
countless local festivals (at least one per week).
In 1942 the first asphalted road
that connected Coatepec and Xico was built. All the other roads and paths in
the region are only paved, covered with gravel or arejust dirt roads or paths. The latter is true
especially of the medium and higher region of Xico municipality.
On January 11, 1956 Xico was
declared a town.The region is developing as a tourist and recreational area
during the weekends for the city of Xalapa and central Mexico. Its attractions
are local culinary specialties, (chilacayote, Xonequi, tamal ranchero, mole
de Xico, Chileatole, verde de Xico etc.) the friendliness of its
inhabitants, the cleanliness and quiet of the town, the 17th century colonial
town centre, bridges, natural swimming pools in the river (especially that of
Texolo, at which several Hollywood movies were filmed).In the surroundings there are ancient haciendas
and museums, and the Gulf Coast is only 45 minutes awayby car. As regards arts and crafts, there
are to be found fruit liquors, preserves, special bakery products baked in wood
ovens, bamboo furniture (similar to rattan), saddler’s leather products,
pottery, masks and woodcarvings made of coffee wood, and of course the aromatic
highland coffee.
Xico is also a point of
attraction for scientists, especially biologists who study the wide variety of
fog forest plants, before they disappear due to thoughtless deforestation.
There is also a wide variety of
species of birds and snakes, and the many canyons of the great Naucampatépetl
mountain are a hideout for animals like tejón, toche, armadillo, tlacuache (opossum)
, tuza (giant mole) , mapache (racoon), to name just a few.
The large slope of Xico is a
barrier to the clouds that rise from the Gulf of Mexico, and therefore fog
often gives a mysterious touch to the evergreen landscape with the primeval
ferns, some as tall as trees. There survive several native healers and with
doctors who know the value of the many native medicinal plants. Therefore
ceremonies with healing sessions in the temazcal (native sweat bath,
similar to the sauna) are held in the area. Almost all catholic saints – sometimes with a
prehispanic touch – havetheir place in
Xico, but Santa Magdalena, the town saint, is particularly celebrated. Almost
every day the saint’s effigy in the town church is honoured with a new dress,
and its wardrobe has become so large that a museum next to the church exhibits
outstanding dresses from the 18th century to our days, which were donated by
competing inhabitants of the city. But that is by no means all: On
the festive days in June a mile-long carpet made of coloured sawdust and
flowers is laid out along the main street. After the religious processions and
the indian dances a Spanish-style pamplonada is heldwhich constists of courageous people trying
to ride young bulls through the streets of the city. Every season ofthe year has its attractions and marks the
city on the weekends with some kind of celebration, even if the fog reduces
visibility or a sud-den spell of cold weather (the norte, strong cold
wind coming down from Canada) drives the visitor into the ktichen with its
culinary delights.
And
also to those who just want to go hiking or horseback riding, or those who want
to look for pieces of prehispanic pottery, enjoy the lush vegetation or the
views of the mountains, Xico will guarantee some unforgettable holidays.